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Rear seal

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regular - member
125 posts

well i believe i have found out that my rear seal may be leaking somewhat and need to replace this anyone know how hard or what really is involved in this?

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97m w/ short throw,cai,racing pullies,RS*R spring with KYB agx adj coilovers,15" team dynamics wheels.
regular - member
181 posts

cam seals or rear main seal?

regular - member
125 posts

rear main seal

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97m w/ short throw,cai,racing pullies,RS*R spring with KYB agx adj coilovers,15" team dynamics wheels.
superstar - founder
419 posts

So how bad is the leak? I am thinking the transmission has to be pulled to replace it. I'm not sure though I would have to do some research as I have never done this. If the trans has to be pulled you might want to think about a clutch replacement while you are in there.

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93 Black/Tan "C" Package; 03 Special Edition #1235/1549 (Jewel)
superstar - founder
419 posts

Here's some discussion on the subject of oil leaks I found on miata.net.

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=349951&highlight=Rear+Main

Maybe this will help.

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93 Black/Tan "C" Package; 03 Special Edition #1235/1549 (Jewel)
regular - member
181 posts

have to pull the driveshaft, drop the transmission, and the flywheel has to come off. I'm almost sure of this.

superstar - member
337 posts

If you end up doing this and a clutch job, I'd like to volunteer my help (so I can learn for when I have to do this).

superstar - member
237 posts

It's a breeze to replace. That is once you get the tranny out. And while you are in there you might as well replace the clutch at work over the flywheel. 

George

regular - member
125 posts

well it is not leaking a lot atm so i am going to try and band-aid her till after first of the year,i got a plan set to change : Rear Seal,Flywheel and complete clutch.

looking at this clutch atm have heard alot of good thing about this clutch.
http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Performance-Part/60-0119.html

and getting this flywheel:
http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Performance-Part/60-1155.html

i believe the clutch that is in atm is probably still got alot of life left but it is a stage 2 and tends to have some clutch chatter.i figure with the one mentioned above i can also run turbo or supercharge and upto 8 psi hell i probably wouldnt go anymore than that anyways unless i really want more.

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97m w/ short throw,cai,racing pullies,RS*R spring with KYB agx adj coilovers,15" team dynamics wheels.
regular - member
88 posts

What are your long term plans for the car? Staying NA or turbo/supercharger?
If your planning on going to the darkside, get a SPEC clutch that can handle some big boost. Pat had, if I remember right, a SPEC stage 2+ clutch in his 2002, and it felt like stock. It was able to handle all the Ubercharger could handle.
The Stage 2 is rated for 275, stage 2+ for 300 pounds of torque, either will be more than enough for a stock Miata engine. Now if Your building a FM Stroker with crazy internals, then you'll want more.
In my '91 I have the first 1.6 ACT that FM sold  a long time ago. At the time I couldn't afford the FM clutch Happy Meal, which is why I stayed with the 1.6. Feels and behaves like stock and can handle everything the 12lbs of boost throws at it.
Another point I wanted to mention, if your planning on boost, don't kid yourself that you won't want more later on. I was happy with 8lbs for a year. Then I needed more and went to 12lbs. Would love to step it up to 15lbs and really make the car scream. But 12lbs is the max "safe lbs amount" for stock internals. Plus I have the "small" FM intercooler which can handle 12 lbs max. The car runs to well to start replacing good itmes. Plan for overkill. With only a $70 price difference, I'd go for the SPEC.
On the other hand, if you staying NA, then get a stock clutch kit from Rosenthal Mazda for $241, and have a nice dinner with a special someone with the difference. No sense getting more than what Mazda went with originally.
 


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